Man Of Aran Fudge
Tomás Póil left the Aran Islands when there was no work and then found a way back through fudge. Now his nephew makes it on Inis Oírr, tourists carry the fudge home, and An Post helps move each batch from these remote rocks to the mainland and around the world.
On the Aran Islands off the coast of Galway, where Irish is still the first language, Tomás Póil is sustaining a way of life that connects past and future through something as simple as fudge. Growing up on Inis Oírr, the smallest of the three islands, Tomás knew a childhood defined by simplicity and community. “We had very little in today’s terms but at the time we had everything,” he recalls. With nine children in the house, resourcefulness was essential. “Spáráil é a ghrá (spare it) was used about everything. The bigger ones looked after the little ones as did our neighbours, keeping an eye out for us as we did for them.”
In that world, treats were treasured. Tomás remembers the bars of toffee his grandmother sent to sustain him through school terms on the mainland, a memory that would later inspire his own craft. As he puts it in Irish: “An rud is annamh is iontach - what is seldom is great.”
From Farm To Fudge
When Tomás finished school, the islands offered little opportunity. “I wanted to stay but couldn’t see a way of earning my living there.” In 1999, seeking to supplement his farm income, he began making fudge. What started at mainland shows, festivals and markets evolved into a business that eventually allowed Tomás to return to island life, this time establishing himself on Inis Mór. “It took time to find a place to live and a place to sell our fudge on the islands, but we persevered,” Tomás explains. “I have built up the business, and between the sales to tourists and the online orders there is sufficient trade to sustain the enterprise.”
Kerrygold butter is an essential ingredient for Man of Aran Fudge because it is made with cream. Some fudge manufacturers boil their ingredients together but Tomás prefers to cook everything in a bain-marie, allowing the flavour of the vanilla essence to assimilate gradually. Man of Aran Fudge flavours include raisin, plain chocolate, caramel, strawberry, Bailey’s, lemon, Maltesers, salted caramel, and peppermint.
The craft of fudge-making, he insists, goes beyond following recipes. “The technique is simple - just follow the instructions. Timing is checking the clock. Instinct is a lot more important, and a lot more difficult.” Weather plays its part too, as humidity can make all the difference. “Fudge-making comes with dedication and practice - you get a feel for it.”
Keeping It In The Family
That feel is something Tomás has passed to his nephew Eoghan, who makes and sells the fudge on Inis Oírr, bringing the venture full circle to where Tomás grew up. “It is hugely important to me that our little business continues,” says Tomás. “It took me a long time to coax Eoghan into the job. It is not a nine to five, five day a week job. We are busier at weekends and holidays when other people are off work.” Now Eoghan’s children are involved during summer holidays, raising the prospect of a third generation carrying the craft forward. “Hopefully when they grow up they will continue,” Tomás says. “How great will that be.”
For an island business, connection to the mainland is vital. An Post plays an essential role in enabling Man of Aran Fudge to reach customers through online sales at manofaranfudge.ie. “They’re especially important to us, and without An Post we couldn’t cope, because there’s no other way that we could get our product to the mainland,” Tomás explains. “The post usually goes out on the plane in the morning, but sometimes when it’s foggy the plane doesn’t fly and then the postman brings it to the boat. So our fudge still moves.”
More Than Confectionery
In Tomás’s view, Man of Aran Fudge is more than a livelihood - it’s an ambassador for island life itself. “It makes me feel honoured to think of people from all over the world bringing our sweet stuff home from these rocky islands to their family and friends,” he reflects. “When visitors buy our fudge, I hope they can see this very special place in their mind’s eye for many years to come, and that the memory will gladden their heart. Gaeilge is so important to us and we use cúpla focal with all nationalities. It’s great when they want to learn some of the language too.”
For young islanders contemplating their own craft ventures, Tomás remarks: “I would encourage them to go for it, have faith in themselves, and talk to positive people. Work hard, and if at first you don’t succeed then go again.”
Man of Aran Fudge operates stalls beside the quayside on Inis Mór and Inis Oírr. The fudge can be ordered online at https://manofaranfudge.ie. The An Post Aran Jumper stamps launch this month, celebrating Aran heritage and enterprise.